This post was written by guest writer DeeDee J., who was trained to measure and fit bras during the time that she worked at Dillards, and who has some fabulous insight for all of us ladies! You're probably going to be like me, and find out that your bra just doesn't fit like it's supposed to, so sit back and learn from someone who knows her stuff. Since a well-fitted bra is the foundation for a well-fitted wardrobe, I thought this would be a great way to start off the blog posts for the New Year...enjoy! :)Boobs, nipple, breast… I just kind of wanted to get those words out there before I continued so the giggles are over with now. It’s just a part of the body, so chill.
I really do not know many women who like to shop for bras. They love to shop for dresses or jewelry or shoes, but never bras. That’s typically because there are a million styles or you don’t know what size to look for and it’s sometimes embarrassing to ask for help in that area. Please don’t be embarrassed! They are just boobs and every woman has them. Plus, if you fit them properly, your outfit that you put over them will look even more amazing!
Why They Are Necessary...Just for your information, if you wear a size double d, the combined weight of your breasts can be 25 pounds. Seriously! 25 pounds! Crazy, right? If that is not properly supported it can do serious damage to your back. Even if your cup size is not that big, (even an A cup,) you need to have plenty of support. If you have ever felt little twinges of pain in the very top portion near where they connect to your chest, that is breast tissue ripping, and the only way to fix that is through surgery. This is especially something to think about if you are exercising. If you are trying to purchase a sports bra, jump around. If they are bouncing, you either need a smaller size or need to wear two at once.

If you look at the first picture, it looks like a ton changed with this woman, but the only thing different is her bra. She came in with one that did not fit, and left with one that did.
How They Should Fit...This is the part that everyone wants to know about. What size am I??? You will need a partner and a flexible measuring tape for this. First, you measure just above any part of the bust, around your body, and to take the measurement you need to drop your arms to your side, so that the tape rests near your underarms. (This is why you need a partner because it is impossible to take the measurement yourself with your arms down.) The first measurement should be taken with the tape snug. Not so tight that you have skin rolling over it, but pretty fitted. The reason you measure above the bust instead of right below is that your ribs can protrude slightly, causing the measurement to be off.
The second measurement is going to go over the largest part of your chest, which is typically at the nipple line. This is going to be a little bit looser measurement. It will still be touching the skin all the way around, just not as snugly. Make sure to drop your arms to your sides on the second measurement as well. Jessica Simpson is going to be our model for this because she is pretty full figured so it is easier to see on her. The blue line is measurement number one and the red line is measurement number two.

Measurement one (blue line) is your band size. Band sizes only come in even numbers so if you got 35.5 round up to 36 and if you got 34.5 round down to 34. If you are right in the middle at 35” (or 33” or 37”, etc) I would calculate try on both sizes. It will depend on the style which size will work better for you. To find the cup size you simply subtract the first measurement from the second measurement. The number of inches will
determine the cup size, i.e. 1”=A, 2”=B, 3”=C, 4”=D, 5”=DD/E and etc. (By the way, DD and E are the same, DDD and F are the same, and DDDD and G are the same. It will depend on the brand which they prefer to put on the tag.) So if your measurements are 32” and 36”, you would be a 32D. Sounds simple enough right? It generally is with the exception that all styles are not created equal. This is why you MUST try them on in the store and make sure it is fitting properly and you are not having any of the issues in the picture below.
When you are trying on a bra it is recommended that you hook the bra on the center hook unless it is that one week per month you are retaining water weight. This will allow you to be able to loosen the band on that week and allow it to be tightened once it inevitably stretches out a bit. Another option is to try it on the loosest hook so you will have even farther to take it in when it stretches out. After you have it on, you want to make sure the straps
are tightened just enough where you can still two fingers underneath it. For the cups, you need to reach all the way in and lift your entire breast up and into the center to make sure the underwire is not on any breast tissue. Make sure you are standing straight up, not sitting or leaning over when you are adjusting the cups.
The first part of checking if it is fitting correctly is checking the band. Eighty percent of your support is going to come from the band, not the straps, so if it is wrong, it’s a big problem. When looking at the front, the center part between your cups should be laying flat against the body. If it is poking out, there is a good chance the cups are too small or the band is too big. The underwire should also be flat against the body and not laying on any breast tissue. This is especially true on the sides of the cups. The underwire should be behind all of the breast tissue or there is a good chance you are bruising yourself on a daily basis.
If you have what looks like back fat hanging over the back of the band,
there’s a good chance the band is just too tight. If that’s the case, it doesn’t matter if you are a size 2 or 22, it will not look attractive. On the other hand, if the band is riding up in back, the band is typically too loose.
Onto the cups… it should be one seamless line from the bottom of the underwire to your neck. If there is a gap between your breast and the cup, the cup is too big. If you have spillage, which is where the breast tissue is bulging over the top of the cup, the cup is too small.
Not All Boobs Are Equal...One thing that most people don’t talk about is that, unless you have had surgery to make them that way, your boobs will not be even. Some people are lucky enough to have them be close enough that you cannot tell while others can be several cup sizes different. Typically it is just one cup size or
less and there are some really quick and easy ways to fix this.
First, take measurements just on the larger breast side from your sternum to your backbone. You always want to fit the larger side because you need to have as much support as possible.
Next, start with a molded cup bra. This is just one that has a form already. Some full busted women are concerned this is going to add more to them, but that is not the case. It is just creating a nice form and also preventing everyone in the room from knowing you are cold. Some molded cup bras come with a little pocket and inserts which make the next steps much easier. One that does this is Frederick’s of Hollywood’s
Liquid Lift Smooth Bra.
You also want to get familiar with inserts. They can be filled with air, water, gel, or just foam. As far as which you use, it’s simply personal preference. If there is a large difference between the two breasts you might consider the gel or water, just to give you the weight to match the other side.
To make the breasts look even, if you are using the Liquid Lift bra, pull out the insert on the larger side and make sure that side fits well. On the smaller side keep the insert in the pocket provided. If you are purchasing one without the pocket, just put the insert in the bottom of the cup along the underwire in the deepest part of the cup. You then want to reach in and pull
the entire breast up and in like you normally would. If there is still a gap in the cup, add a second insert just on top and above the first one. To hold it in, consider purchasing dress tape which can be attached to the insert and the bra.
Proper Care...Bras should not be worn more than one day in a row. It takes a minimum of 24 hours for the elastic to go back to its original form. If you do choose to wear it more than one day at a time, just know that it is going to die faster. Because of this, you should have a minimum of 3 good bras at any given
time. If you only have 3 though, they will typically only last about 6 to 8 months on average. If it is a really good brand like Le Mystere (a.k.a. the Oprah bra because she recommended it on her show several times) it might last a year if you are lucky.
When you wash them, they should always be either hand washed or they can go in the washing machine on a gentle cycle, preferable in a lingerie bag. Make sure all hooks are hooked if they are going in the washing machine. To dry, they should be laid flat. Never invert the cups or you will
get creases that are nearly impossible to get out.
Where To Go...If you are not confident enough to fit yourself, that is perfectly all right. There are many places where trained professionals in this type of thing are waiting to help you. One I know that will measure and fit you correctly is Dillard’s, because that’s where I used to work. The Certified Lingerie Fitters there actually have to take a course, fit a certain number of people and then take
a test to be certified, so you know they know what they are doing. Some others that I have heard can measure you are Frederick’s, J.C. Penney’s, and Victoria’s Secret. I would be cautious about the last one though, because when I went in, they measured me incorrectly. (Rachel's note: The same thing has happened to me, so I wouldn't recommend VS.)
Some specific brands and bras for certain sizes I like are…
Nearly – If you are a nearly A, A, or nearly B,
Wacoal and
Cabernet have some really great options for you. Both can be found at Dillard’s.
B, C, or D – You are a pretty lucky person because you can walk into nearly any store and find a style that will fit. Some of my favorite brands for you would be Calvin Klein or DKNY. They have some seamless bands that look great under any outfit.
DD+ - Make sure you are supported because chances are you are carrying
quite a bit of weight in that area. If you can afford it, try
Le Mystere which is really amazing. You can stop by Dillard’s toward the end of the season and they will have fun colors that have gone on sale. I picked one up recently when it was 75% off. If they are too much, try
Modern Movement. It is a Dillard’s brand that is still very supportive and about half of the price of Le Mystere.
So there you have it! Thank you for your wonderfully informative and helpful article, DeeDee! I know that all of us will benefit from this knowledge and will hopefully be able to start the New Year on a more solid foundation. ;)- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad